1984 Honda V65 Magna (VF1100C) External Oil Supply Line
Upgrade Installation Instructions
Version 1.1
28 October, 1995
Copyright (c) 1995 by John A. Landry
All Rights Reserved
This document may be freely copied and distributed in any form, so long as it
is maintained in its entirety (including this notice) without any changes,
deletions or modifications not performed exclusively by the author. Further
it must remain free of charge and may not be sold, rented, leased, traded or
used in any way for financial gain or financial exchange. It is provided for
the free use and benefit of all Honda V4 engine series motorcycle owners.
- WARNING -
If you lack sufficient mechanical skills and or tools to perform these
modifications yourself, please seek competent mechanical assistance. The
author provides these instructions for informational purposes only and you are
solely responsible for what you do with them. Incorrect use of these
instructions can result in severe damage to your engine, property damage, or
personal injury to yourself or others. If your motorcycle is still covered,
modifications such as this will likely void your warrantee.
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Version 1.1 Changes
Trenton R. Schoeb, a fellow motorcyclist and happy V65 Magna owner, has been
kind enough to supply some updated Honda part number information in addition
to current pricing. Some of his pricing has been added to the text, but
realize that your costs may vary somewhat based on where you buy the parts.
The costs given will at least give you an idea what the total will be for the
modification. Trenton modified his V65 Magna using the modification outlined
in this text as a starting point but he also added a few of his own innovative
ideas. The author would like to acknowledge his helpful pointers which have
been incorporated in many places of these instructions. Trenton has an
article out which details how he did his modification. Check it out!
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Description of Modification
The cylinder head oil supply lines on the Honda V4 series of engines are
external. The oil supply originates from a port on the left side of the
engine above the transmission. This supply of oil first passes through the
oil pump pickup screen, through the oil pump, then is routed still unfiltered
to the transmission, where a small amount finds its way up through the
external oil supply lines to the front and rear cylinder heads. This oil is
used for valve train lubrication.
It has long been suspected that inadequate lubrication to the valve components
in the cylinder heads have been a major contributor to premature valve train
wear and failure in these series of Honda engines. A popular modification to
these engines has been to install an alternate means of supplying a higher
volume of filtered engine oil to the cylinder heads.
The author has been aware of two rather expensive kits available over the
years to accomplish just this solution. One consisted of removing and
inverting the engine, milling a spot on the bottom of the crankcase in order
to tap into the main oil gallery. Once this tap was done, new higher volume
oil lines were installed, routing filtered oil to the cylinder heads.
Another kit accomplished the same goal by the installation of a special milled
disk between the oil filter and the engine, which also provided a source of
filtered engine oil. As in the previous kit, new higher volume oil lines were
supplied for routing the oil to the cylinder heads. Installation of this kit
would seem to be much simpler than the previous kit.
The author designed this particular modification described herein, along the
same belief that a higher volume of filtered oil routed to the cylinder heads
would help prevent some of the premature camshaft wear prevalent with these
engines. By using simple, relatively inexpensive high quality fittings and
lines, and by purchasing these parts yourself, you can save the mark-up that
must be associated with those included in kit form. This is truly a "do-it-
yourself" kit, for those of us who like to "tinker."
This modification was performed by the author in early 1992 after complete
replacement of the camshafts and followers in his 1984 V65 Magna at around
25,000 miles showing on the odometer. The modification has performed
flawlessly, and looks really nice too. The V65 Magna that had this
modification installed on it has had approximately 40,000 more miles added to
it since the modification was performed. No leaks or problems have occurred
and the camshafts and followers look as good as the day they were installed.
This idea uses the alternate source of high volume filtered engine oil from
the main oil gallery, which runs under the crankshaft inside the crankcase.
The original port, where unfiltered oil is supplied from the transmission,
will be plugged off. The old external oil lines and banjo fittings will be
removed and discarded. New higher volume Teflon(R)[1] oil lines with external
stainless steel braid will be installed in place of the old oil supply lines.
The existing ports on the cylinder heads will be utilized, along with the
original cylinder head banjo bolts. The result of this modification is
filtered engine oil flowing generously to the valve train in the cylinder
head.
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Model Application
The author personally installed this modification on his 1984 Honda V65 Magna
with excellent results. The author does not have any experience outside of
this particular model and engine. While these instructions apply specifically
to the 1984 Honda V65 Magna, they should fit all years of this same model
(VF1100C). With very slight changes, these same parts and procedures will
probably fit all of the Honda V4 series engines. The most notable changes
would probably be in the area of the clearances you have to work with,
routing, length of the hoses, and substitution of some Honda parts such as the
various gaskets required.
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Parts Required
Description Qty. Part No. Cost
Hydraulic Fittings
Teflon(R) Hose to 1/8" NPT Fitting 4 ea Aeroquip 38-190627-2-4 $4.17 ea
Teflon(R) Hose to 37deg. JIC Fitting 2 ea Aeroquip 63-190600-4 $4.09 ea
Teflon(R) Hose, .19" ID Passage 36 in Aeroquip 2807-4 $0.35 ft
10mm Banjo Bolt Fitting 2 ea Aeroquip FBM2948 $18.52 pk/2
1/8" NPT Brass Tee Fitting 1 ea Weatherhead 3700-2 $1.31 ea
or Parker 2203P-2
* 1/8" NPT Extender (Adapter) 1 ea Weatherhead 3200-2 $0.51 ea
or Parker 22P-2-2
1/8" NPT 90 Degree Street Elbow 1 ea Weatherhead 3400-2 $0.62 ea
or Parker 2202P-2-2
Honda Parts
* 10mm Banjo Bolt Sealing Washer 5 ea 90443-MB0-000 $2.52 ea
Right Side Engine Cover Gasket 1 ea 11394-MB4-000 $19.52 ea
Ex Pipe to Muffler Sleeve Gasket 2 ea 18291-MN4-920 $2.98 ea
Exhaust Sealing Ring Gasket 2 ea 91335-567-000 (discontinued)
(replacement) 18391-ML8-000 $7.26 ea
* Official Honda Shop Manual 1 ea
Miscellaneous Parts
10mm-1.5 x 20mm SS Hex Cap Screw 1 ea McMaster Carr 91287A169
NOTE: Trenton Schoeb also reports that this bolt was the incorrect thread
pitch for his V65 Magna. He needed a 1.25mm pitch instead of the 1.5mm
pitch listed here. Because of this, it is recommend that you simply
take the old bolt down to your local hardware store or automobile supply
store to match up what you actually have, rather than ordering the bolt.
The author would love to hear from anyone else who can share what size
screw they used.
* 1/4" Wide Teflon(R) Pipe Tape 1 rl McMaster Carr 4591K11 $1.11 ea
* 1/4" Teflon(R) Helical Wrap 1 ft McMaster Carr 7432K61 $1.76 ft
* These parts may be optional!
The extender fitting (adapter) was used simply to give a little more
clearing between the bottom of the engine and the 90 Degree Elbow, but in
retrospect, the author found it really wasn't needed and probably had
plenty of clearance anyway.
The author was able to successfully re-use the banjo bolt sealing washers
after thoroughly cleaning them. The author has had absolutely no leaks.
This is however, NOT recommended because of the SLIGHT possibility of
leaks! The decision is yours whether you want to not risk buying new
washers in order to save several dollars. It has been reported by Trenton
(see version 1.1 changes at the beginning of the article) that the 10mm
washers he received from Honda have an outside diameter that is too large
to fit into the recesses provided in the cylinder heads. He confirmed that
they are the correct part number for the V65, but they simply do not fit.
All the more reason in the author's mind not to waste your money on buying
replacements.
While you don't have to have an "Official" Honda shop manual, what are you
doing working on your motorcycle without one? The Honda manuals are the
best and most detailed the author has seen yet and worth every penny.
Teflon(R) pipe tape is not "supposed" to be required on high quality brass
hydraulic fittings, but the author wasn't going to take any chances and
used it anyway. You'll only want to do the assembly once, so it's probably
a good idea to use it!
The Teflon(R) helical bundling wrap may be needed around various sections of
the new stainless steel jacketed Teflon(R) oil lines to keep them from
directly chafing on parts of the engine and frame. Polyethylene helical
bundling wrap from Radio Shack can be substituted, but it's temperature
resistance is MUCH lower than the Teflon(R), so if you use it, keep it well
clear of the exhaust system! If you don't care that hose chafing may
ultimately wear a hole through the stainless steel jacket, resulting in a
spray of hot of oil while you're flying down the freeway, then you don't
need this protection!
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Sources
The author is providing a source of supply for all of these parts, realizing
that many of you may not have a reliable local source of supply. Further,
many hydraulics suppliers will not be able to get the "high performance"
metric Aeroquip banjo fittings. The author is in no way connected to any of
these sources, other than to have been a satisfied customer with all of them.
The hydraulic supplier listed took the time to help the author figure out what
he needed and even took him into their shop and gave him a quick lesson on how
to assemble the Teflon(R) hose to the Aeroquip fittings. The author has had
equally good dealings with both of the Honda mail order part suppliers listed
below (not to mention very attractive prices), as well as the McMaster Carr
Supply Co., which is a HUGE national industrial hardware supplier.
Back in 1992 when the author purchased all of these parts, the total cost was
about $65.00. The costs have gone up a little bit since then, but you should
be able to do the whole job for $100.00 or less. That may sound like a lot...
but it's a heck of a lot less than buying another four camshafts and eight
followers... the author knows from personal experience!
Hydraulic Parts
The hydraulics supplier said they would be happy to accept orders over the
phone and ship UPS if the customer uses a VISA or Mastercard. They do accept
COD shipments. Please respect the fact that they aren't a charity
organization, so don't call them for advice unless you're willing to place an
order... especially on their 800 line! The author has continued to receive
glowing reports of good service from fellow motorcyclists who've placed orders
with Williams Oil Filter Service.
Williams Oil Filter Service Co. (WOFSCO)
1745 Jefferson Avenue
Tacoma, WA 98402
206-627-8163
800-777-1250
Fax: 206-627-8332
Honda Parts
Midwest Action Cycle Competition Accessories, Inc.
1401 Elkhorn Road 1944 Route 68 North
Lake Geneva, WI 53147 PO Box 160
Xenia, OH 45385
414-249-0600
800-343-9065 513-372-7607
Fax: 414-249-0608 800-543-3535
Miscellaneous Parts
McMaster Carr Supply Co.
9630 Norwalk Blvd.
Santa Fe Springs, CA 90670-2932
310-692-5911
Fax: 310-695-2323
NOTE: McMaster Carr Co. has several warehouses and sales offices around the
USA. You can place an order at the telephone number above there, or
you can obtain your local telephone number from the one above and use
it.
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Tools Required For Assembly
Electric Drill (Variable speed preferred)
"Q" Size Drill Bit
(A more common 5/16" bit can be substituted for the Q drill bit.)
Approximate 1/8" Size Drill Bit (For pilot hole drilling)
1/8" NPT Tap and Tap Handle
Metric Socket Set
Metric Open End Wrench Set
Bench Vise
Center Punch
Hammer
Measuring Tape
Masking Tape
Fine Toothed Hack Saw
Chalk
Long Q-Tips
Small Floor Jack (Not required, but very helpful)
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Modification Instructions
1. Begin by removing the original external cylinder head oil supply lines.
To make the job easy, you will more than likely destroy these oil lines
while trying to remove them. Make life easy on yourself and simply cut
them as needed to get them off. If you're planning on re-using the banjo
bolt sealing washers, clean them carefully and set them aside. Also,
clean and set aside the two 10mm banjo bolts used in the cylinder heads
oil ports.
2. Carefully clean the recessed seating area of all of the original oil
supply ports, both on the left side of the engine above the transmission
and on the cylinder heads. Q-tips work good for this. Place a banjo
bolt sealing washer onto the stainless steel 10mm hex bolt and thread it
into the original oil supply port above the transmission, effectively
blocking it off. Tighten the hex bolt securely.
3. Drain the engine oil first, then remove the right side crankcase cover in
order to expose the round silver colored plug, which blocks the right
side of the main oil gallery. The main oil gallery runs from side to
side in the crankcase, directly below the crankshaft.
Use care when removing the old gasket off of the crankcase cover. Do not
gouge the soft aluminum with a sharp scraper. Using an aerosol spray on
gasket remover can be a big help in softening the old gasket to make
removal easier.
4. Remove the round silver plug blocking the right side of the main oil
gallery. This is accomplished by simply pulling it straight off the
right side of the engine. You can now look into the main oil gallery.
5. While looking under the engine, locate a spot directly under the main oil
gallery just to the right of the oil pan. On the V65 Magna, there is a
pronounced hump where the main oil gallery runs above it. The selected
spot must be located far enough from the oil pan, in order that a 90
degree elbow can be turned without striking the side of the oil pan.
About one inch from the side of the oil pan should give plenty of
clearance. Further, keep in mind that this spot should not be so far
from the oil pan that the 90 degree elbow will be under the right front
cylinder exhaust down pipe. Mark the selected spot with the chalk, a dab
of paint, or whatever will show up later.
6. Remove the right front cylinder exhaust down pipe. On the V65 Magna,
this is easiest achieved by removing both of the front cylinder exhaust
down pipes, muffler and rear exhaust pipes as a single unit. The rear
cylinder exhaust down pipes are not removed in this operation. See the
official Honda shop manual for further details. The exhaust is removed
to afford easy access to the marked area under the crankcase.
7. Using the center punch and hammer, mark the spot selected under the
crankcase, where the 90 degree elbow will be installed.
8. This step is the most serious in the modification. It's not difficult,
but since you will be drilling into the main oil gallery, if you mess
this up, you will have quite a problem on your hands. It's a good idea
to drill a pilot hole first if you are using a high speed drill, but if
you have a variable speed drill and can keep the speed slow you can get
away without one, although the author recommends one in eiter case.
Using the "Q" size drill bit and an electric drill, carefully bore a hole
straight into the main oil gallery from the underside of the crankcase.
Make sure the drill bit is lined up straight with the bottom surface of
the crankcase during this operation.
9. Using the 1/8" pipe tap and handle, tap the hole previously drilled.
Again, take your time and make sure the tap remains straight with the
bottom of the crankcase. A good quality aluminum tapping fluid is
recommended while tapping, but not essential for such a small hole. Good
tapping technique is to rotate the tap forward about one half turn, then
back one quarter turn as you proceed, to break the chips off being cut.
10. The next step is simple, but CRITICAL! Clean ALL metal chips from inside
and outside of the main oil gallery. Use whatever means you like, but
don't push the chips in further and fail to get them out while doing
this. The author used long wooden Q-Tips in this operation. Next, clean
the chips from the threads of the tapped hole. Lastly, clean the area
under the crankcase around the tapped hole. Finally, CLEAN IT ALL AGAIN,
just to make sure you don't leave any dirt or chips behind. If you need
to be told why your engine doesn't need metal chips in the main oil
gallery, you shouldn't be doing this modification by yourself!
11. Wrap two turns of Teflon(R) pipe tape around the male threads of the 90
degree elbow. Make sure that the pipe tape is not applied past the end
of the threads at the opening of the male nipple. Carefully thread the
90 degree elbow into the tapped hole under the crankcase, tightening it
until SNUG and orientated with the female opening of the elbow pointed
toward the front of the engine. "Snug" does not mean you keep tightening
the fitting until you can't turn it anymore. When it is snug, you will
still be able to easily turn it with a small wrench. DO NOT OVER
TIGHTEN! It doesn't take much to assure a leak free seal when using a
brass fitting in an aluminum engine block with the aid of Teflon(R) pipe
tape! You DO NOT need to crank this fitting down until it stops against
the bottom of the crankcase. To do so, you run the risk of stripping out
the soft aluminum threads in the crankcase. The fact that a hose will be
attached to the fitting will keep it from ever turning and getting loose.
If desired (like the author did), you can insert the 1/8" pipe extender
(adapter) between the 90 degree elbow and the crankcase first, in order
to give more clearance from the bottom of the engine. Again, this
however didn't appear to be absolutely needed after reviewing how the
installation turned out.
12. Next comes the assembly of the Teflon(R) hose sections to the various
fittings. It's best to measure and assemble the hose sections as you
install them, rather than trying to estimate the correct lengths and
doing all of the assembly at once. The correct lengths will vary
depending on how you decide to route the hoses and the particular model
motorcycle you have. The author routed the hoses from the 90 degree
elbow to the tee fitting by going forward of the engine then up between
the right cylinder bank and frame, then back along the right side of the
engine to the "v" formed by the cylinder heads, where the Tee resides.
The hoses then branched to the cylinder heads from between the cylinder
bank "v." Routing isn't critical, so long as the hose assembly isn't
laying against an exhaust pipe or interfering with operation of the
motorcycle. Remember the oil lines will become hot during engine
operation!
The hose sections are constructed at follows:
1. Elbow to tee fitting: 1 each Teflon(R) hose length (approximately 18"
OAL on the author's V65 Magna) with 2 each Aeroquip 38-190627-2-4 on
each end.
2. Tee fitting to front cylinder head: 1 each Teflon(R) hose (approximately
4" OAL on the author's V65 Magna) with an Aeroquip 38-190627-2-4 on
one end and an Aeroquip 63-190600-4 on the other.
3. Tee fitting to rear cylinder head: 1 each Teflon(R) hose (approximately
8" OAL on the author's V65 Magna) with an Aeroquip 38-190627-2-4 on
one end and an Aeroquip 63-190600-4 on the other.
The author has included a GIF picture from the Aeroquip catalog as an
accompaniment to these written instructions. This GIF contains complete
instructions and illustrations on how to properly accomplish the hose
assembly. For those without GIF viewer support, here is a description of
the procedure:
A. Wrap the hose with masking tape at cut-off point and cut square to
length through taped area using a cut-off machine or fine toothed
hack saw. Remove tape and trim any loose wires flush with tube
stock. Any burrs on the bore of the tube stock should be removed
with a knife. Clean the hose bore. Sometimes wire braid will tend
to "neck-down" on one end and flare out on the opposite end. This is
a characteristic of wire braid hose and can be used to an advantage
in the assembly of the fittings. Slip two fitting sockets back to
back over the "necked down" end of the hose.
B. 1. Push the sleeve over the end of the tube and under the wire
braid by hand. Complete positioning of the sleeve by pushing
the hose end against a flat surface. Visually inspect to see
that the tube stock butts against the inside shoulder of the
sleeve.
2. Set the sleeve barbs into the Teflon(R) tube by holding the nipple
hex in a bench vise and then working the hose bore over the
nipple into the end of the sleeve and tube with a twisting
motion until seated against the nipple chamfer.
C. Lubricate nipple and socket threads with a molydisulfied base
lubricant (do not use lubricants which contain chloride). Push the
socket forward and hand start threading of the socket to the nipple.
D. While holding the socket hex in the bench vise, wrench tighten the
nipple hex until clearance with socket hex is 1/32" or less. Tighten
further to align corners of nipple and socket hexes.
13. The first hose section to assemble is the one that will be installed
between the 90 degree elbow under the engine to where the tee fitting
will be installed. After assembling this hose section, wrap two turns of
Teflon(R) pipe tape around both the 1/8" male NPT fitting ends on each end
of the hose assembly. Once again, make sure none of the tape hangs over
the fitting openings. Thread one end of the hose assembly into the
female end of the 90 degree elbow and tighten securely. Route the hose
assembly as desired up to the "v" between the engine cylinder banks.
Thread one of the female NPT openings on the "long" end of the tee
fitting onto the other end of the hose assembly and tighten securely.
Further adjust the tightness of the fittings to orient the tee fitting as
desired with the goal that the hose assembly itself cannot be twisted or
stressed. The joints must be used to orient the rotation of the hose
fittings, NOT the hose itself! DON'T twist the hose!
14. Next, assemble the hose section which will run from the tee fitting to
the banjo fitting which will be bolted to the front cylinder head. Use
Teflon(R) pipe tape on the male NPT end of the hose section and thread it
into the "short" side of the tee fitting and tighten. Attach the
Aeroquip FBM2948 banjo fitting to the other end of the hose assembly
WITHOUT USING Teflon(R) pipe tape and tighten securely. This type of JIC
fitting does NOT require thread sealing tape. You may have to loosen and
re-tighten the banjo fitting where it attaches to the hose assembly,
until you get the banjo fitting orientation correct, so that it will lie
flat against the oil port on the cylinder head without any twist in the
hose.
15. As above, assemble and install the hose section which will run from the
tee fitting to the banjo fitting which will be bolted to the rear
cylinder head.
16. Place a banjo bolt sealing washer on each one of the original cylinder
head banjo bolts and insert them into their banjo fittings. Place
another banjo bolt sealing washer under each of the banjo fittings, then
thread the banjo bolts into their respective oil ports and tighten
securely. On the V65 Magna, once installed, the front cylinder oil hose
will have to have a slight "jog" in it. This is in order to clear one of
the engine coolant pipes.
17. Reinstall the main oil gallery plug on the right side of the engine in
the end of the main oil gallery. Reinstall the right side crankcase
cover. Unless you have a badly nicked or damaged sealing surface, gasket
sealant is not needed on either the cover or the crankcase when using the
Honda gasket.
18. Reinstall the exhaust pipes which were removed previously. The exhaust
assembly if removed as a unit is quite heavy. The author uses a floor
jack under the muffler to slowly lift the whole assembly into place under
the motorcycle. With a little practice, you can re-install this exhaust
assembly using the floor jack in about 10 minutes. Refer to the Honda
repair manual for detailed information.
19. If the new oil hose assemblies are likely to chafe against any part of
the frame or engine, install the Teflon(R) bundle wrap over these spots.
20. Refill the crankcase with oil, start the engine and check for leaks.
21. Go for a ride and show off your new toy!
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The author welcomes any suggested corrections or additions you may have to
these instructions, and can be reached via e-mail at gyropilot@earthlink.net.
Footnotes:
[1] DuPont's lawyers have warned that this footnote must be shown.
"Teflon(R) is a registered trademark of DuPont for its
fluoropolymer resins."